Deck safety tips:

• Test railings and banisters: Properly secure any that might be loose. Railings should be at least 36 inches high. Rails should be no more than 4 inches apart. 

• Stability: Ledger boards are used to attach decks to houses. Support posts and joist hangers anchor supporting beams under the deck. Support posts should have bracing to prevent lateral movement. 

• Wood rot: Wood that is soft and spongy is an indication of decay, which could lead to trouble. Small holes in the wood could be a sign that insects, like carpenter bees, are causing structural problems. 

• Fasteners: Replace any nails, screws and anchors that are loose, rusty or corroded. Use bolts instead of nails to fasten wood to wood. Ledger boards should be secured with appropriately-sized lag bolts. 

• Inspection: Ask your home inspector for a thorough inspection of the deck, if you’re buying a home that already has one. If you have an existing deck, annual inspections are your best bet to ensure it’s structurally sound. 

• Permits: If you’re buying a home with an existing deck, ask for proof that a building permit was issued for the construction and that a certificate of occupancy was issued upon completion. Those documents help ensure the deck was built to the applicable municipality codes and regulations.

Building/maintenance tips:

• Hire a qualified professional: A well-regarded professional is the best route to go in building or inspecting a deck. If you want to build your own deck, do yourself a favor and get it inspected before you host your first deck party. 

• Seal it up: If your deck coating has worn away, clean and waterproof it again. That will help prevent decay in the wood. 

• Use pressure treated lumber: That is the most durable when it comes to framing. Untreated lumber will decay faster. 

• Make it “Joist” so: Special hangers connect the joists, or support beams, to strengthen load-bearing connections. They are essential to proper deck support. 

• Dam it: Don’t forget the flashing, a metal or plastic barrier between the house and ledger board, which keeps water from entering the house.

• Avoid overload: Don’t put a 3,000-pound hot tub on a deck built to withstand 1,400 pounds. Check with a local builder or architect to determine how much weight your deck can support. Most residential decks are built to withstand a minimum of 40 pounds per square foot.

• You find granules from the shingles in the gutters or around your downspouts.
• The corners of the shingles peel up at the edges and you can see the underlying roof.
• The color becomes inconsistent and dark, meaning the granules have worn away.
• You notice shingles are missing or you find them in your yard.
• Moss or algae has begun to cover the shingles.
• You notice a spongy feel or trampoline bounce when walking on the roof, which means the underlying decking is weakened from moisture.If your roof is 15 years old or more, check it regularly and look closely for the early signs of problems.

• Make sure your attic is properly vented and that vents, including soffit vents, aren’t blocked by insulation or debris.
• Clean your gutters regularly and don’t let leaves and debris collect in valleys on the roof.

• Have a helper: If you’re going to tackle the job yourself, get someone to stabilize the ladder and be on hand to help. Also, use a bucket attached to a rope to load up the debris and lower down to your helper to dispose of, so you’re not cleaning up twice.

• Ladder safety: Always use a ladder that is long enough for the task and wear shoes that have good traction. Avoid leaning your ladder on the gutters, as this can damage them. Most hardware stores carry ladder extensions that curve to put the ladder weight on the roof.

• Scoop it up: Put on some heavy-duty gloves or use a small gardening shovel to scoop out leaves, sticks and other debris that might be clogging gutters and spouts.

• Get out the hose: After the debris is removed, use the hose for a final rinse to check that water is moving through your downspouts properly.

• Clear obstructions: If the water fails to drain freely, use a plumbing snake or wet/dry vac to clear the clog from the bottom up.

• Don’t forget to check gutter screens/guards: Check that these are not damaged or clogged with leaves. Carefully lift the guards to avoid damaging them and remove any leaves or debris under them and reinstall properly.

• Check insurance: When hiring a professional, check that the company is insured and ask to see their policy. Check that you have enough homeowners insurance, as well.

• Twice a year: Plan on cleaning your gutters once in the fall and again in the spring.

• Rest up! Take frequent breaks, especially when working from a ladder.

• A final check: Once your gutters are clean, check to see that they are firmly attached to your home and repair any loose spots you find.