Angie's List Tips > March 2008 > Shopping for new windows

Posted: 3/10/2008 1:00:00 AM | 15 comments
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Windows can account for 10 percent to 25 percent of your energy bill. If your house is among the nearly half of all U.S. homes with single-pane windows, consider replacing them with high-performance glass that will add a fresh look and decrease your energy costs. In addition, new windows can increase the safety of your home as older models can easily be forced open. Here are some tips on selecting the best windows for your home.

Materials
  • When it comes to windows, price, aesthetic and level of maintenance will determine whether you choose vinyl, fiberglass, wood or composite.
  • If you want zero maintenance, go with vinyl. These windows come in a variety of color choices and wood grain laminates, are less expensive and once they’re installed, you’re done – no painting or staining is required.
  • If you want to customize the window trim with paint or stain, go with wood or fiberglass.
  • Different window hardware (handles and locking mechanisms) are also available – so you can choose bright brass in one room and antique brass in another.
  • As with any product, brand matters. Ask your installer which brand they recommend and why.
Pricing
  •  Vinyl starts at $400/window installed (double pane), while wood and fiberglass are nearly double that at $750/window. And keep in mind, once you have the wood or fiberglass window installed, you’ll still incur the cost of paint or stain.
  • Double pane windows are the most popular, but triple-pane is also available. They cost about $50 more per window installed, but offer more energy savings, and if sound insulation is important, this is the way to go.
Energy savings
  • Look for the Energy Star rating. It’s still the way to go, even though tax credits are no longer being offered.
  • Windows typically range from a .28 - .35 U-value (there are windows that are .5); the lower the number the higher the energy efficiency.
  • In colder climates, a U-value of 0.35 or below is recommended. In warm climates, look for windows with double glazing and spectrally selective coatings to reduce heat gain. In temperate climates, look for a low U-value and low solar heat gain co-efficiency (SHGC).
  • Air leakage ratings of 0.3 cubic feet per minute or less are recommended.
  • Double-pane windows with low-e coating (argon gas-filled panes and low emissivity) on the glass will reflect radiant heat back into the room during colder months.
  • If you’re in an older home and don’t want to lose your leaded glass windows, consider adding a traditional storm window to the exterior for added energy savings.
Installation and maintenance
  • Reputation and experience is key when it comes to window installation. If installed incorrectly, windows will leak air and water can penetrate the seal leading to mold or wood rot.
  • Window grids can be installed inside or outside the glass, but consider the ease of cleaning and maintenance in order to make the best decision for your home.
  • Window installers can handle five to 10 windows per day on average so disruption can be kept to a minimum.
  • The installation crew will need to come inside the home, so if you have valuable art on the walls or high-end furniture nearby, consider removing it yourself just in case.
  • Busiest times of year for window installers are April – May and September – October.
Comments
janet
This was nicely written. The only thing I would add as advice when buying windows for new construction, remodel or retro-fit is alway use a local company with a good reputation, always get your manfacturers and installers warranty in writing and always get three seperate comparative bids.

Good window installers enjoy their jobs and love happy customers! :)
5/16/2009 12:24:31 AM
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Lisa Gwaltney
This was a very informative article. We have not been told that tax credits are no longer available... Energy efficient windows with a U value of .30 or lower and a SHGC of .30 should still qualify for 30% back up to $1500.00 for 2009 OR 2010 - one time credit - they should check with their tax professional.
6/17/2009 4:44:34 PM
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Susanna
The solution to energy efficiency is not replacing your historic windows with replacement windows (which will need to be replaced in 10-15 years anyways). Old windows were specifically designed to custom fit your home, and its parts we designed to be repairable. It is difficult and expensive to repair replacement windows, while older windows need wood,putty and maybe some glass! Having your windows restored or repaired can cost half as much as purchasing a new "quality" replacement window.

Homeowners should really look into the true cost savings replacement window companies claim to offer. A single pane old window with a good storm window is comparable to new double pane windows. Once restored or repaired, a then well maintained historic window, with an appropriate storm window, will last another 100 years.
6/17/2009 5:11:07 PM
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Greg
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits
6/17/2009 5:14:59 PM
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Virginia Wischet
Lisa,
You're correct; the tax credits are indeed available through 2010. The home must be your primary residence and you must itemize (no short form). We offer these installed from $279, and the solar heat gain on ours is .22 +/- and U factor .30.
6/17/2009 6:39:52 PM
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Christian
New windows are not necessarily the first step to improve energy efficiency. If your house is not air tight, or walls and roof are not sufficiently insulated, the energy savings from new windows may be small. Have an energy auditor perform infrared and blower door tests. He will best be able to tell where to invest for best energy savings.
6/17/2009 8:43:10 PM
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Chip Cheney
There are Tax credits available for 2009 & 2010. The tax credits are non-refundable so they only goto people who actually have a federal tax liability on their 1040. Most people pay federal taxes; not related to your refund or if you write a check. Rebate is 21% of job cost if not self installed, 30% of part cost if self installed. Max credit is $1500. Govt. factors installed products as 70% parts and 30% labor so the 30% credit goes to the 70% parts which nets 21% of installed price. Windows and entry doors must rate .30 or lower for U-value and SHGC. Air leakage of .30 is bare minimum to get Energy Star label. Any good window will rate below .10 and any window above .10 should be avoided. Avoid sub-contracted labor for window installs. Half of your decision should be install, sub's work fast to maximize profits and a rushed job is never thorough enough.
6/18/2009 12:43:42 AM
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lenora
My understanding is that the tax credits are back on for this year.
6/18/2009 7:07:00 AM
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Alan Eshelman
Regarding Chip's comment on not using "subcontractors"... how does a consumer know if he is working with a sub for window replacement?
6/18/2009 10:04:47 AM
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Morgan
Good and partially accurate information. Yes a decent double paned vinyl window starts around $400, but try finding one that adds triple pane for $50. Triple pane is great, I have had them in the past 2 homes, and I put double pane in my rental properties since I can get a decent double pane installed much cheaper. Triple pane is much quieter, and it is my understanding that the Energy Star guidelines will be changing soon, and double pane windows will not qualify. I the $1500 energy tax credit is a great incentive this year too. Since not all replacement windows are the same level of quality, and good installation is paramount to energy savings, do your homework!
6/18/2009 11:47:47 AM
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Jerry Eads
I must admit I'm relatively repair competent - used to have my own auto repair - Jaguars and Italian $$. Installing replacement windows is just too dumb plain simple to farm out if you can operate a can opener. The insane prices quoted by the replacement companies are beyond insane. I don't know YET whether you can find decent replacements for sane prices from the big box or other stores, but the cost of the granted gorgeous pieces offered by the major replacement companies would take decades to recover. If you can drive a nail and read, if you're going to put replacements in existing surrounds, DO IT YOURSELF.
6/18/2009 2:11:39 PM
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Tom
A lot of great info in a brief space! However I would like to warn people on the air infiltration rating of .30 is a "passing" grade for AAMA certification but we have heard a number of complaints over the years about people who replaced their old wood windows and storms with new vinyl windows and felt drafty in the winter. I would recommend nothing less than a .10 or less air rating in vinyl windows as vinyl will shrink/move more than other materials used to make windows. There are some very "air tight" vinyl windows on the market but it takes some serious engineering AND high tech machines to make them. IE: Soft-Lite spend years devolping their lastest windows and a lot of money on state of the art robotic fabrication machinery. However they have the best proven air rating at .01CFM. That is 30 times better than passing! Beware of companies that can not back up their ratings with test results. AAMA ratings at 1.57# equals 25 MPH wind are the real standards. Ask any Architect or structal engineer what specs they use,AAMA.A lot of window salespeople don't like to discuss air infiltrtion. Regardless of mother natures wind, each time your heat or ac comes on you house is out of balance. meaning you are pushing air out or sucking it in.Windows and doors can be a hugh problem. One other item I would add is "solar tuning" Most companies now offer "solar" low-e in addition to normal low-e squared.Normal low-e's don't do a lot to reflect "direct" suns heat. They work well with indirect heat as reradiated from anything outside etc. Even in northern parts of the country I would suggest useing solar low-e on south and west facing windows. I know, some of you will worry that you are giving up your solar heat gain in the winter. Winter days are shorter and many times cloudy anyway so why not block most of the unwanted summer heat gain?
6/18/2009 3:37:07 PM
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martha r
first, there is not enough differentiation here between wood and vinyl. What about vinyl clad wood (is that different from vinyl?) or (gasp!) metal?
Second, "Qualifying products purchased between February 17, 2009 and December 31, 2010 are eligible for a tax credit equal to 30 percent of the product cost.": http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=windows_doors.pr_taxcredits
third,you don't differentiate between replacement windows and new windows
fourth, what on earth is leaded glass?
fifth, by window grids do you mean false muntin grids? Why not opt for real divided panes? Are they not available anymore?
I am looking to replace all the windows in my new old house but i am afraid this post was not as helpful as Lisa's comment!
6/18/2009 8:49:08 PM
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Tom
A book called Residential Windows by John Carmody is a great resource for window shopping. Take your time, you should only replace them once or you may be better off with a good storm window. I have been in the business for over 20 years and I am still learning. We spend at least 1 to 2 hours educating a first time buyer on just the basic pros and cons of vinyl v fiberglass v wood/clad, aluminum etc. etc. Then there is replacement v storms v window films. There is a lot to learn but windows have a hugh impact on on how a house looks inside and from the outside plus a energy and comfort.
6/20/2009 4:04:18 PM
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Chip Cheney
A sub-contracted window installer is paid per window for the install (say $50 - $200 depending.) Therefore a sub is motivated to rush as his profits are increased the faster they work. They are also motivated to ignore minor to medium issues or worse. A sub is more likely to take less time 'tweaking' for a perfect fit and worse; they are off the hook 1 year later according to most state's laws.

Now having said that there are plenty of good subs that take pride in their work and there are companies with high standards that likewise make sure to use only quality installers.

An hourly employee is paid regardless of speed (but will certainly not work slowly) so generally, more attention to detail and clean up is found. You can't have the argument years later where the general contractor blames the sub and you end up with a finger pointing match.

In this day, wrapping work vehicles with graphic ads is the norm. So if your install crew is driving a box truck with colorful ABC Windows written all over it then its likely employees, uniforms and similar dress are another clue. A pickup truck with nothing or a simple magnet sticker on the door is a good sign of a sub.

Most companies should be upfront about what they use but be wary as many salesmen will take liberties with the truth to get a sale.

With sub-contracted labor, the general contractor has less control over screening installers and you run the risk of uninsured or underinsured people on your property.
8/15/2009 11:55:34 AM
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